As the days get longer I'm sometimes still at the allotment when the 17.00 Northlink ferry passes the bottom of the allotment on its way to Orkney and Shetland. I look a little enviously at the passengers leaning on the rail at the stern and sometimes return the waves of excited children. I've been to Orkney on that very ship and loved both the journey and the islands but when I think about gardening I am less inclined to be heading north as I'm reminded of the almost constant wind gardeners have to cope with there. (But see what my fellow blogger Planticru achieved on a site which she described as 'Everything a new garden could want, except a decent climate and good soil.')
It's bad enough here situated as we are right by the shore. Gales can wreak havoc with standing crops at any time of year. But in thinking about gaining an edge, or at least not losing one, I'm focusing less on the really violent gales which there is little we can do to alleviate, but instead on the lesser but persistent winds which we maybe underestimate because they don't actually blow our plants away or break stems. The desiccating effect of continuous winds slows growth and can interfere with flowering and fruiting. But the most vulnerable plants are those juniors in spring who haven't much experience of life's hardships and have to contend with that lethal combination - cold temperatures combined with wind. Joy Larkcom, in Grow Your Own Vegetables, mentions research showing that protection from even light winds can increase yields by up to 30%. Hey, this is no small increment; this is a giant leap, or would be if it's achievable.
To do that we need to consider all sorts of strategies: windbreaks (living or artificial) at the edge of gardens; covering crops with permeable material or plastic; arranging plantings so that larger and sturdy plants offer protection to smaller and more tender specimens in their lee; later plantings; careful varietal selection and so on. In vulnerable gardens we probably have to use all of these to a greater or lesser extent. The problem with covering individual plantings seem to be me three-fold; a lot of work is involved in repeatedly laying and removing covers, there are costs involved, and, let's face it, they are not very attractive are they?
Here are two beds of winter tares planted in October as green manure. As an experiment I covered one bed with what they call 40% windbreak netting. Although not clear in the photo, underneath the netting there is more bulk and therefore more value in the green manure for digging in composting. But the small gain came at the expense of the netting and the labour of the structure. So I'm working on other fronts that might be easier to manage.
At the top of the plot, looking south but subject to some vicious winds slicing off the golf course, my aim is to plant some living shelter. I have planted some Jerusalem artichokes here beside the fence but when they come through I expect they themselves will appreciate some protection so I'm using these old bit of lap fence to break the wind a little. As the year progresses the fence should acquire more decorations and trinkets, as much to hide the fence as for wind protection. (It comes with the plot. Not my choice.)
At the other end of the plot, facing north, I'm hoping to sap the wind's determination with netting and ropes. The beneficial effects of slowing down the wind can extend up to ten times the height of the windbreak. That covers the whole length of the plot if I can get the right balance. Too much of a barrier and the wind will push it over or jump over and flatten the plants.
But this is a work in progress. I'll need to go through a year's growing cycle to get a better feel of the problem and how I can adapt to it. One thing's sure: the garden will look a lot different by the end of the year. But will my brassicas be horizontal?
